Crackers Are Optional – A Conversation with The Cheese Lady

WRITTEN BY JORDAN KOSSUTH

In 2004, Kathleen Fagen Riegler – the original “Cheese Lady” – resigned from her job and started her own business bringing a variety of specialty cheeses from around the world to the Muskegon Farmers Market. She had recently spent time in Provence, France, and was inspired by the open-air markets and cheese vendors. Kathleen and her husband John were thrilled with the success of the Muskegon store. While they had never intended to franchise, when a former employee inquired about expanding in Kalamazoo, they were happy to oblige.

A CHEESE LADY IS BORN

A frequent customer of the flagship Muskegon store, Heather Zinn had heard buzz surrounding the Kalamazoo franchise. Heather had been looking for a business opportunity and was confident there was a market for a second location in her neighborhood – Grand Rapids. After meeting with Kathleen and John, they agreed to help bring Heather’s vision to life. Kathleen continues to be actively involved as the Cheese Lady sisterhood continues to expand, with locations in Kalamazoo, Grand Rapids, Traverse City, Farmington, Rochester, and Fenton.

The Grand Rapids Cheese Lady opened on October 11, 2012 – 10/11/12. The grand opening was delayed slightly as Heather’s already large family (her dad is the oldest of 9 kids) expanded with the birth of her daughter Amelia – making Amelia the same age as the store!

Amongst the busyness of their grand opening, Heather recalls Kathy & John joking about her large family, saying that they couldn’t help but wonder how many of the attendees she was related to. While only a portion of those in attendance were actually relatives, Heather highlights the importance of the familial relationship they have built with staff and customers. “The best thing about what we do here is the energy and the customers – it’s a fun break from reality.”

Everyone who enters shares the common passion for cheese, and they have worked hard to create an environment that people can leave happier than when they arrived. The store’s atmosphere lends itself to this brand well – warm, friendly and approachable, with exposed rafters and a brightly painted floor.

The Grand Rapids store is located about five minutes from the heart of downtown Grand Rapids, and just a short walk from the Fulton Street Farmer’s Market where you can catch Heather and her fellow cheese mongers on Fridays.

CHEESE 101

New staff begin with several months of training and education prior to assisting customers on their own. The Cheese Lady education is ongoing – and Heather insists that “you’ll never know everything there is to know about cheese.”

One of the most interesting things Heather has learned is how blue cheeses get their color. The cheese itself is pierced with cultures of Penicillium roqueforti, allowing air to enter and creating that famous blue-green pate. While blue cheese is often considered an acquired taste due to its distinct aroma and flavor, Heather thinks it is important to remember to never be afraid of trying something new! Her store stocks a variety of washed rind cheeses that are very aromatic, that can initially be off-putting to a novice taster. However, Heather jokes, “their bark is worse than their bite!”

Some of the most aromatic – such as Swiss Abbey Wrestler (raw cow milk cheese), and French Raclette (the world’s most famous melting table cheese) – are also the most full-flavored and rich! You may end up loving it, and you’ll never know until you try – which is an added bonus of shopping at the Cheese Lady. In addition to the highly educated staff who can recommend new favorites to customers, you can sample them prior to purchasing.

THE “SO MUCH MORE THAN JUST CHEESE” LADY

Specialty vegan cheese options are a recent addition to the store as well, from Minneapolis-based brother & sister duo The Herbivorous Butcher. Heather is excited to share that they figured it out – and that people who try this insist it is the perfect vegan substitute!

As most of their cheeses are from outside of the state, Heather likes to carry a lot of additional products from Michigan-owned small businesses. Their shelves are stocked with Michigan wines, beers and ciders, as well as various other locally sourced accoutrements, such as Wild Thyme soup mixes, Cellar Door Preserves, Mrs. Dog’s Disappearing Mustard, and Breadworks pecans. They also carry a variety of handcrafted pottery, artwork, and woodwork from local artists – including cutting boards from Kessler Woodworking out of Montague, MI.

In short – you could find a gift for just about any occasion here! They also offer full-service catering, as well as pick-up and delivery. Their knowledgeable staff are always on hand to help you with made to order gift baskets. Not a cheese expert? No problem! They are happy to help you pick out the perfect items for a unique gift.

ENTER: BRIDGE STREET MARKET

The Cheese Lady’s presence within Bridge Street Market has been more beneficial than anyone could have imagined. They have especially flourished during the pandemic, highlighting the perk of accessible and affordable specialty cheeses (and helpful descriptions!) within the market during a year focused on minimal travel outside your own home. The Cheese Lady is thrilled that customers have trusted them to hand-select the best cheeses and share them for purchase at Bridge Street Market.

At any given time, The Cheese Lady has 23 varieties in the dairy cooler at Bridge Street Market – including 3 vegan options.

Some Cheese Lady favorites include:

Prairie Breeze Cheddar – A dry, sweet continental cheddar-style cow’s milk cheese with nutty tones and crystal crunches made on small farms in Iowa. Great for snacking and on sandwiches, and one of their overall top sellers!
Fromegar d’Affinois – a French brie-style cheese that pairs perfectly with Almondina crackers.
Beemster XO – A crumbly aged gouda matured for 26 months that goes great with sweet wines, or as a substitute for parmesan in pasta dishes.
Dorothea Potato Chip Gouda – Try it and you’ll understand the name - this goat’s milk cheese has a nutty flavor that won the Dutch award for “Most Unusual Food” in 1993.

WHAT’S YOUR DESERT ISLAND CHEESE?

Heather couldn’t choose just one favorite cheese – because there are far too many great options! However, if she were stuck on a desert island with only one cheese for the rest of her life, she would choose Cambozola, a German triple cream cheese produced using rich Bavarian milk to create a velvety feel and creamy flavor. With delicate blue veining, Cambozola has qualities of both brie and blue cheese.

SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE OF CHEESE

While you may not want to share the deliciously cheesy haul you’ve brought home, a charcuterie board is a great way to elevate any gathering and show off your newfound knowledge. The Cheese Lady has partnered with Bridge Street Market to curate an endcap section designed to take the guesswork out of building your own charcuterie boards. Honey, jam, mustards – everything you need can be found right here!

In building your own charcuterie board, Heather suggests using the following:

A variety of cheese textures – Heather’s ideal board contains a young Manchego (crisp-tasting semi-hard sheep’s milk cheese), and Delice de Bourgogne (rich, buttery triple-cream cow’s milk cheese).
A variety of cheese milks – such as Truffle Tremor (a ripe, bloomy goat cheese) and Roomano Pradera (a sweet & salty flavor-dense cow’s milk cheese).
Some kind of nut – She loves Marcona almonds!
A fruit spread – Fig Spread is a go to, as it pairs well with just about anything!

Heather points out that while crackers can be added to a board as well, they are not as necessary as you may think – a spoon works just as well!